|
|
|
It's
stopped completely
It's not cool
|
|
Note:
If your repair problem isn't listed,
click
here to email Brian
Tedman .
He will give you the help you need.
|
First,
check to see if the light comes on or if there is any fan, motor, or other
sound coming from the appliance? If so, the refrigerator isn't really
completely stopped--go to the specific problem you are having. If not, try
adjusting the thermostat to a colder setting. If that doesn't work, read on.
Second, check to see if there is power getting to the refrigerator. To do
that, plug a lamp or other device into the same outlet the refrigerator is
plugged into. If there's no power, check the fuses or circuit breakers. If
the fuses or breakers aren't the problem, contact a qualified electrician to
restore power to the outlet.
If there is power to the appliance but it still seems to be stopped, there
may be a problem in one or more of these:
 | Wiring
| Thermostat
| Defrost timer
| Compressor
| Overload and/or relay
|
| | | |
Unfortunately, we can't describe all of the possible problems and repair
solutions here. If you are unable to troubleshoot the problem from here, you
may need to contact a qualified appliance repair technician.
To top
|
|
|
If
the refrigerator isn't cool, you need to answer some questions, then see if
the compressor is running.
First, answer these questions:
| Is the refrigerator completely dead? If so, see “It's stopped
completely.”
| Is the thermostat knob turned to the proper setting? If not, reset it.
|
|
Next, see if the compressor motor is running
The compressor is a football-sized case with no apparent moving parts. It's
on the outside of the refrigerator at the back near the bottom. If it is
humming or making a continuous noise and your refrigerator is still not
cooling, there may be a more serious problem with one or more of several
different components, we recommend contacting a qualified appliance repair
technician for further help.
If the compressor is not running but you do have power to the refrigerator,
there may be a problem with one or more of these:
| The compressor
| The Thermostat
| The overload, relay, or capacitor
| The defrost timer
| The condensor fan motor |
| | | |
If you are unable to troubleshoot the problem from here, you may need to
contact a qualified appliance repair technician.
To top |
|
|
For
an overall understanding of how refrigerators should work, read about
refrigerators in the How Things Work section of our website. A refrigerator
or freezer that is cooling, but cooling poorly, may have a problem in one of
several areas:
Evaporator coils
Condenser
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator
coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt.
If you are unable to troubleshoot the problem from here, you may need to
contact a qualified appliance repair technician.
To top
|
|
|
Poor
cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator
coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of
your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any
frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer.
Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting
system or damaged door gaskets.
The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in
every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system
fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so
much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't
draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling
because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in
the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.
Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem
is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from
the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to
Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several
towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to
overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually."
When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the
thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools
properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the
self-defrosting system:
| The defrost timer
| The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)
| The defrost heater
|
| |
If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the
refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a
qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem
If you are unable to troubleshoot the problem from here, you may need to
contact a qualified appliance repair technician.
To top
|
|
|
Self-defrosting
refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the
refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated
with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils
may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower
kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power
source, use a refrigerator condenser brush and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair,
etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it
may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of
the refrigerator.
If you are unable to troubleshoot the problem from here, you may need to
contact a qualified appliance repair technician.
To top
|
|
|
Noise
can come from these areas:
The inside of the freezer
The outside back of the
refrigerator
The bottom of the refrigerator
To top |
|
|
Self-defrosting
refrigerators use a circulating fan to move the air through the freezer and
refrigerator compartments. This fan runs whenever the unit is cooling. The
fan is located in the freezer, as follows:
| If the freezer is on top, the fan is on the back wall, near the top or
bottom, in the center of the freezer.
| If the freezer is on the bottom, the fan is on the back wall, near the
top of the freezer.
| If the freezer is on the left, the fan is on the back wall, halfway up
or near the top.
|
| |
Over time, the fan may become noisy--usually making a chirping or squealing
sound, though it may make a loud groaning noise instead.
To find out if the fan is causing the noise, just open the freezer door and
push in any fan/light switches. If the noise is louder when the door is
open, the evaporator fan motor is the cause. You can't lubricate or repair
this motor. You must replace it.
If you are unable to troubleshoot the problem from here, you may need to
contact a qualified appliance repair technician.
To top
|
|
|
There
are three components on the outside back of the refrigerator that may become
noisy: the compressor, the condenser fan motor (if self-defrosting), or the
defrost timer (if self-defrosting).
| The compressor is a football-sized case with no apparent moving parts.
You can see it on the outside of the refrigerator at the back near the
bottom. It is usually black and has black or copper-colored tubes and
various colored wires attached to it. If the compressor is the device
making noise, there is probably no repair that will reduce the noise. You
will have to replace it--which can be quite costly.
| If the condenser fan is making noise, there may be a build-up of lint
or other debris on the fan blade. The fan is located near the back of the
machine, sometimes behind a thin panel. To clean it, first unplug the
refrigerator, remove the thin panel, and use a soft bristle brush to clean
it. If there is no lint build-up or debris on the blade, you will have to
replace the motor.
| The defrost timer is often located at the bottom of the refrigerator,
near the front and behind the kick plate. Occasionally the electric motor
inside the timer may become noisy. The timer must be replaced to solve
this problem.
To top |
| |
|
|
|
Noises
detected at the bottom of the refrigerator almost always originate from the
back of the refrigerator. However, sometimes the drain pan under the
refrigerator will rattle. You may need to tape the pan in place to stop a
rattle. Also see the “Outside back of the refrigerator.”
To top |
|
|
Water
can leak from these areas:
The bottom front of the
refrigerator or freezer door
The back of the refrigerator
The inside ceiling of the
refrigerator
The inside back wall of the
refrigerator
Underneath the front of the
refrigerator
|
|
|
Self-defrosting
refrigerators usually dispose of the water generated during the defrost
cycle via a tube or channel that directs the water to a pan at the bottom of
the refrigerator. From the pan, the water normally evaporates.
If the tube or channel is clogged or obstructed, the water backs up and
leaks into the inside of the refrigerator compartment. Then the water builds
up at the bottom, inside of the refrigerator. When the water has built up
for a time it may spill out of the front of the door opening. To fix this
problem, clear the drain tube or channel and allow the defrost water to flow
down to the drain pan.
In some refrigerators, the defrost water is intentionally directed down the
back wall of the refrigerator, where it then flows to the bottom of the
refrigerator compartment and out to a small drain--usually located beneath
one of the drawers at the bottom of the refrigerator. If the drain becomes
clogged or blocked, the water may back up. To fix this problem, clear the
obstruction.
Another cause may be the following. The refrigerator may have doorframe
heaters to evaporate any condensation on the cabinet frame. If your
refrigerator is equipped with a switch inside that says “energy saver”
or something similar, while running in that mode the door heaters are
disabled. Turn the switch to the opposite setting and wait 24 hours. If the
condensation disappears the problem is solved.
To top |
|
|
Water
coming from the back of the refrigerator usually comes from either the ice
maker water valve or line (if there is an ice maker), or from the defrost
drain pan.
Here's what to do:
| If the water is coming from the ice maker water valve, check to make
sure the water tubes are attached properly and are fastened tightly.
| If the water seems to be coming from any part of the valve itself,
replace the valve.
| If the water appears to be coming from the defrost drain pan, inspect
for holes or cracks, and replace the pan if necessary.
To top |
| |
|
|
|
Water
accumulating on the ceiling of the refrigerator is usually caused by a
clogged drain in the freezer section beneath the evaporator. The clogged
drain will cause water from the self defrost cycle to leak into the divider
between the freezer and refrigerator. This water may then freeze and cause
condensation build-up on the refrigerator ceiling. The solution to this
problem begins with unclogging the drain. It may also be necessary to remove
the entire freezer/refrigerator divider to thoroughly dry the insulation in
the divider. Occasionally the insulation needs to be replaced to prevent a
recurrence of the problem. This can be a big job – you may want to hire a
qualified appliance repair technician.
|
|
|
In
some refrigerators, the water from the defrost cycle is intentionally
directed down the back wall of the refrigerator, where it then flows to the
bottom of the refrigerator compartment and out to a small drain - usually
located beneath one of the drawers at the bottom of the refrigerator. If the
drain becomes clogged or blocked, the water may back up. To fix this
problem, clear the obstruction.
|
|
|
If
the refrigerator is equipped with a water dispenser on the freezer door,
check if the water line to the dispenser is leaking. Also, check the drip
pan to be sure it isn’t out of place, broken or cracked.
|
|
|
See
the “Cooling is poor” section above.
|
|
|
This
is a common problem that often doesn't have a clear, permanent solution. The
first thing to check is the overall internal refrigerator temperature.
The proper temperature should be 4 degrees Centigrade. Here are some
things to try:
| If your refrigerator temperature is closer to 35 degrees, try turning
the temperature up slightly.
| If you find that the temperature varies a lot from the top shelf to the
bottom (where it is coldest), try putting produce and other sensitive
products on a higher shelf.
| If the temperature is too low and you can't make it warmer by adjusting
the thermostat, you probably have a defective thermostat. If so, you need
to replace it, because they cannot be repaired. Other possible problems
are a leak in the sealed (refrigerant) system, cold air migration (in
side-by-side models) or a defective air damper. These problems can be
quite difficult to locate and correct, we recommend you contact a
qualified appliance repair technician.
To top |
| |
|
|
|
Self-defrosting
refrigerators dispose of the water generated during the defrost cycle,
usually via a tube or channel that directs the water to a pan at the bottom
of the refrigerator. From the pan, the water normally evaporates.
If the tube or channel is clogged or obstructed, the water backs up and
leaks into the inside of the refrigerator compartment. Then the water builds
up at the bottom, inside of the refrigerator. When the water has built up
for a time it may spill out of the front of the door opening. To fix this
problem, clear the drain tube or channel and allow the defrost water to flow
down to the drain pan.
To top |
|
|
The
thermostat cycles the refrigerator on and off. The refrigerator normally
runs as long as the temperature inside the refrigerator is higher than the
set temperature. If the temperature inside the refrigerator is cold enough
and the thermostat still does not cycle off, the thermostat may be
defective. If so, you need to replace it, because it cannot be repaired. If
the thermostat is not defective, you may have a problem with the sealed
(refrigerant) system, in which case you should contact a qualified appliance
repair technician.
To top |
|
|
The
ice maker is a separate appliance within the freezer section. Please see the
How things Work section of our website to learn about the normal functioning
of ice makers. Some common problems with ice makers are:
How it works
The ice maker has completely
stopped producing ice
The ice maker is producing ice
poorly
To top |
|
|
Check
to see whether the ice maker has been turned off. Here's how to check. Look
for a wire along the right side of the ice maker that looks a bit like a
coat hanger. If this wire is in the raised position, the ice maker is turned
off. On some units you simply lower the wire to the down position to turn
the ice maker on. On others, you lower a small red plastic lever to lower
the wire. Check your door
seals and thermostat, repair/replace as necessary.
To top |
|
|
When
an ice maker is producing ice poorly--when it produces just a few cubes or
none, or when the cubes are too small--it's usually because of a clogged
water line or a defective water inlet valve.
First, check the water line attached to the back of the refrigerator for
good water flow. To do that, first turn off the water supply valve. Then
remove the water line from the back of the refrigerator. Next, place the
water line into a bucket and momentarily turn the water valve back on to
test the flow. If the flow is poor, you need to repair, clean, or replace
the tubing or the shut-off valve that supplies the water. If the flow is
good, you may have to replace the water inlet valve.
To top |
|
|
The
ice and water-dispensing system of your refrigerator is quite complex. Many
components work together to provide the ice and water. Aside from a simple
problem of a leaky water tube or a jammed ice chute, most other components
are not user serviceable. We suggest that you contact a qualified appliance
repair technician for such repairs.
|
| To top |
Warning!
To avoid personal injury or even death, always disconnect your appliance
from its power source--that is, unplug it or break the connection at the
circuit breaker or fuse box--before you do any troubleshooting work on your appliance. 
